Shamefully White

So I've been promising myself for sometime that I would get around to an entry on the whole political situation and the apartheid thing. Finally here it is!

About 3 or 4 weeks ago I visited the District 6 museum which, surprise surprise, in in District 6. This was one of the districts that was allocated as "White Only" when apartheid took its grip in the early 60's. This was despite the fact that the area was already full of black and coloured folks. By the way its ok to say coloured here, it means someone who is not pure black and not pure white. For example one of our tour guides Ursula has a black father and a Chinese mother so she is coloured.

Anyway, there were many districts that were allocated as white only and the government got really busy moving out all the black folks to make room for the tetchy white folks who wanted the area because it was nearer to the city centre and had better amenities and so on. The way these removals were done was horrific. The government just sent trucks with no warning and folks sometimes had as little as 20 minutes to pack up the homes that they had been living in for 20 years, and their families and move out. Their belongings were tossed into the trucks and no one cared whether they got damaged or not. This obviously was traumatic enough but to make matters worse, the black were then moved into areas that were far away from Cape Town and the areas that they knew. They had to travel for 4 hours sometimes to get to work, costing a lot of money and meaning that they left for work at 4am. Their social networks were cut off as they were removed from their friends and they had no money to keep in touch. Often they lost their jobs because they were late or couldn't afford to get there. The black areas became known as areas that were high in the crime rate and in illegal activities, but no one ever made the connection between this and the fact that people had been moved too far away. Instead everyone shrugged their shoulders and said "What can you expect from the blacks?". Add to this the fact that "Whites Only" sign started creeping in everywhere, the blacks had no reasonable access to amenities, medical care and so on, and its not surprising that the tensions rose in the way they did. About 10 years after the start of apartheid, a group of young black men made a peaceful walking protest against it as their children were not getting good education. They were gunned down by the (white) police and most of them were killed for expressing their opinion. One of the photos above is of the monument that was set up- rather late!- by the government in their memory.

Even now in South Africa things are not really any different. The country is only 15 years out of apartheid- isn't that incredible!- so its unrealistic to expect massive changes as yet. The funny thing is that when you talk to Ursula about the differences, she says that in some ways the black and coloureds were better off under apartheid. This is what she had to say:

"As a coloured person I had "Cape Coloured" marked on my identity card so that any government officials could identify me and decide that I should not be in the white area. Apartheid was a terrible time for us all and very scary, as the government could do as they pleased with us and no one would stop them. However, at least when they decided at that time to move us, they would build us decent homes to live in, proper brick homes that were dry and had electricity. But now, the black people are just left to live in townships. They are still separated from whites because they have no education or prospects so can't afford to live in a decent house. They have been forced to build these tin shacks in these townships (the biggest in Cape Town, Khayaleitcha, hold nearly 2 million black and coloured people) and the government say that they dont have to help beacause people are making their choice. My people are not making choices, they have had this way of life thrust upon them and the government do even less now to assist than they did before."

So apartheid may not officially exist in South Africa any more but unofficially its still very much in existence. The lower ranking and poorer paid jobs here are held down by black people- the shop workers and construction workers, the road sweepers and sadly the homeless people who sleep on the beach are all black. The doctors and dentists are all white and drive big, fancy cars. They live in places like Table View and the blacks live in the townships.

Isn't that shit? I've never felt so ashamed to be white.

Buzzin' in the heid!

So much has happened recently that that's exactly how I feel! However, I will attempt to condense it all somewhat....

So I finished work last week- an awful feeling. I've had a few issues with HOH and the way that it is run, but the bottom line is that you are there for the benefit of the kids and after 6 weeks they become very much part of your normal life. So I miss them greatly and I plan to pop in and visit just before I go for good.

We went on the Cape Point tour last week (wee photie included!) which was tremendous. We went to Hout Bay, Simons Town, then onto to Seal Island, Cape Point and the Cape of Good Hope. It was magical to see all the places that I've read about and learned about at school and to put it all into reality.

Then I started my diving course on Friday. The first session was just watching DVD's and learning the theoretical stuff- which is far more lengthy that I ever imagined by the way! But Saturday was great. We went to Seapoint about 30 mins along the road to get to the swimming pool. Before you run away with the image of a chlorinated, heated, indoor swimming pool, let me disabuse you of that notion. The pool is outside, filled by the sea which crashes in next to it and on Saturday it was about 7 degrees in temperature. In other words, bloody freezing!!! Our first task was to swim 400 metres in our swimming costumes with no wet suit- somewhat good for blowing the cobwebs away! Then we were supposed to complete 5 dives with different tasks- we only got 3 done. Some of the stuff is really hard and it takes a bit of time to get used to breathing underwater, especially with 50 pounds of gear on your back! I had to come away early as I was feeling ill and I missed the lesson on Sunday so now I have to catch up cos this weekend we go into the sea for 4 real dives!!!

The swimming in freezing water didn't assist my cold in any way and yesterday I had to finally relent and go to the doc. The first thing he said when he looked at my throat was "Ewwwwwww!" so I'm guessing it wasn't good! Throat infection, glandular infection and chest infection all diagnosed so now I have to take a million horse pills and rest- bleuuch!

I also made the decison to go on a second wine tour which was great fun- hey it had nothing to do with the wine, all my friends were going too! So much wine, cheese and chocolate consumed yet agin- not too great for the diet but yuummeeee!

The photos l-r are: Bonnie, Chelsey and me. The 30+ girls on the Cape Point tour. Me at the Cape of Good Hope, the most SW point in Africa. Lunchtime for Simdi who is thriving and getting big- ish!

So its nearly time to get going again- I'm sure I've said that before! I go to Kruger National Park for a short safari on 25th, then I'm off to Sahrm El Sheik for a 9 day break. I've booked self catering accommodation so I get my own little place. Then on the 13th I'm off on a 17 day tour of Egypt which sounds amazing. Then back to SA for a couple of days and then off to Vietnam on 3rd October. I'll miss SA- its been refreshing and good fun and more than therapeutic after the horrors of Nairobi. But I'm also looking forward to getting somewhere new. I read in a travel book somewhere that the "mark of a gypsy traveller is he who never rests, who appreciates where he is but who is also looking to the next location, the next horizon, the next challenge".

Sounds good to me!!

Just an update

So I haven't really been keeping up with the blog in the way that I should be- oops!! Trouble is that lots happens and I don't really have time and then I can't remember whats going on !!

Its been a bittersweet time recently as people that I have become very attached to have left and I find that difficult. Steph left on Monday and I felt really upset about that as we have literally spent every waking moment of the last 4 weeks together! (We did a second sky dive in honour of her leaving- magic time and I've included a piccie!) We worked together and played and partied together so it feels strange that she is not here now. Chelsey left the week before and left a great hole in the company. Also I went out on Thursday night with Bonnie, someone else that I really hit it off with. However, we went to a place called Mandelas which was the best fun I have had in SA so far. The organisation pick you up and ply you with local drink on the bus as you pick up all the others. Then they take you to a township in Hout Bay which is about an hours drive from Table View, and give you a bit of the history of the creation of townships (I'm going to do a whole other entry on the townships and apartheid so bear with me!) Then we go to a local shebeen (or pub) and the locals just hang out with you and drink beer. Dirt floor, basic electricity and the best singers and dancers that I have ever met. Once again a glimpse of the Africa that I know and love. Home cooked local food- samp and beans, mealie pap and chakalaka (maize and beans, maize porridge and spicy veggie stew)- all delicious in the extreme. Then jukebox music and dancing and having fun till its time to go home. Food, transport, entertainment and alcohol as well as a unique experience all for R225 which is about 9 quid- much cheapness!

Things at work are fine- I only have 4 shifts left to do. Then I think I'm going to travel SA for about a week (the Garden Route), then go to Kruger National Park with Rhian, one of the other volunteers and then probably take a bus trip in Egypt to take in Luxor, Alexandria and all the places that I didn't get to in February. I also have my diving course to do next week which I'm looking forward to in the extreme!

The house is busy as always with the comings and goings of different volunteers for different projects- you do get tired of being welcoming to new people at times! We sleep in the outside bedroom so sometimes its nice to get away from the crowd. In the main the volunteers are girls, and in the main they are in their early 20's so I confess to feeling like a proper old fart at times!

Oh I nearly forgot to say that at last I have managed to get myself a bike!!!!! I will of course have to leave it behind when I go but it means that I have transport for the next couple of weeks. Brand new mountain bike, air pump and lock for R800- about 55 quid!! I plan to go out cycling today as the predicted rain has not materialised and its beautiful and sunny.

Oh the photos- well one is of Table Mountain- yeah if you didn't get that one you shouldn't be allowed out on your own! I plan to go and climb it next week. Apparently it only takes about 2-3 hours. The other is simply footprints in the sand which is a reference to the Footprints poem which I love. The coast here is so beautiful and most addictive. I can't stop taking photos. There is a little coffee shop called Carluccis just around the corner from work where I go to get a hit of caffeine in my lunch hour and I always take my book to read. However between chatting to the extremely pleasant owner (who has my Sprite Zero and my flat white coffee ready for me every day when I go in!) and gazing at the wonderful ocean, I never get much reading done!

Thats about it for this time. Nearly time to move on again. Doesn't life just pass you by!

I survived!

For those of you who have possibly been on another planet for the last few days and dont know, I did a sky dive yesterday. It has to be the coolest and most exciting thing I've ever done, and I'm off to do it again in a week's time ( when we booked it I was like "Errrmmm, thats still a tandem dive right? Even though its our second jump?" The guy was like "No, we chuck you out of a plane from 9000 feet on your own after 20 mins instruction and one jump." Cheeky bastard....)

Anyway the dive- when we got to the jump height I began to think that maybe I wouldn't be able to do it after all- 9000 feet is incredibly high, in case no one realises! We also got a fantastic day for it, very clear and sunny so we could see the ground clearly from that height and were able to start contemplating it in death terms! There is a rush of high speed wind when they roll up the side of the plane (these things are tiny, 6 of us were cramped in it- the skydiving was probably safer!) then I had to watch Steph do the jump first. Her last words as she dived were "Holy fucking shiiitttttt....." then she was gone. Then it was my turn. "Sit on the side of the plane, swing your legs back, put your head against my shoulder. One two three- jump!" 40 seconds of freefall at 120mph before the parachute opens then a leisurely descent admiring Table Mountain and the West coast of the Cape. Beautiful. Can't wait for the second time. Oh and I also have it all on DVD to prove that I did it!

Mama Africa's last night for dinner to celebrate- great food and fabulous African live band which had the place jumping. Had a fab night and didn't get home till 10 am this morning. Ach well, you only live once right!

Busy week ahead- working Mon and Tues (by the by its amazing that at the end of 3 12 hour shifts you can think "I never want to see another fucking kid or hear another Barney song for the rest of my life." Then by the end of your 2 days off you are thinking "I wonder how Sisi's cold is? I wonder if Klunks is walking yet? I wonder how Adrian is doing?" And you are actually looking forward to seeing them. Crazy but true!) I've attempted to add a photo of Adrian smiling away and hopefully its worked. This kid came to us 2 weeks ag. He's 17 months old, HIV positive, mum is dead and he has been living on the street with dad who is an alcoholic. He has been woefully neglected and left very much to his own devices, terrible chronic excema and some behavioural problems. Also one of the sweetest kids I've ever known.

Then on Wednesday we are off to stay the night at Vicky B and B- the smallet hotel in the world! Also hope this image has successfully been added! Its in the black township and the rooms are small but very beautiful. Vicky started it about 10 years ago in the hope that white tourists would come and stay there and they do!

Thursday off to visit Robben Island where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned for political reasons for so long. (By the way his 90th birthday here was such a big deal- every time you go to the ATM it says on the screen Happy Birthday Madiba- his tribal name and a mark of respect. Go South Africa!) Then Friday we are going paragliding- I've already done it but its fun to do it again. Then working the weekend and that will be another week gone by. 3 weeks in already- I cant believe it!

As always I have more to say and add but enough is enough! I still have email to do so I must rest. I've had no sleep ya know- feel sorry for me........?!

Till next time!

Livin the good life in SA!

Well, so far I can't complain in the least about SA although I'm sure I'll be able to find something. The area that I am staying in is painfully white and affluent, the shops and activites are great and I'm not short of company or of things to do- what more could I possibely need?!

The volunteer house is set up so that folks come and go on a regular basis so sometimes its a bit difficult trying to decide who is who and what project they are doing. Aviva has numerous projects on the go, all over South Africa so sometimes folks only stay here for 1 or 2 nights before moving on to go to work. The main volunteers that I am working with on the same project are all getting ready to finish up in about a week, and I will miss them very much but there are more coming in a few days so the house will remain busy!

Work- hmmm.... Well suffice it to say that the woman who runs Home of Hope (Elanor) and I have not exactly gelled. We will definitely not be bosom buddies for the rest of our lives, there is no doubt about that! However, she is a committed and passionate woman who has dedicated all of her life to caring for kids who have been neglected and I have to respect and admire her for that. She and Richard, her husband run the home from their own house and have people coming and going at all hours of the day and night. They also have their own kids that they are bringing up and they have adopted 3 kids from the home also. So they are pretty busy!

The kids are great. All under 2. They all have different histories but all have been neglected abused or abandoned for different reasons. We currently have 4 HIV babies, one preemie, and one who is on a tracheotomy and needs very special care. One of my favourites, a little girl who is approximately 9 months old, was raped by her father. She now screams the place down when you lie her down to change her or bath her.

The routine is pretty crazy when you have 12 to look after. Dressing and breakfast in the morning, then some activities, then lunch and naps ( yeah right!) then supper and baths and bed by 6pm. 12 hour days, but they are so busy that they don't feel long at all!

Spare time- well, I have a skydive booked for Saturday, I want to go sandboarding, I'm dying to try kitesurfing and I'm on the hunt for a bike- again- so that I can cycle the coast line. It's perfect as its so scenic and not at all strenuous. We also just hang out, go out for dinner and drink a lot of wine- hey its South Africa, it would be rude not to! Oh, and theres also a great gym about 10 minutes walk from here so I joined on the spot. They have great facilities and an indoor heated swimming pool- result!

Although there is loads to see and do and I'm really happy, I had a strange experience yesterday. We went on the cultural tour, which is part of the package that Aviva offer. Its a lot to do with the apartheid years and the terrible stuff that black and coloured people (its OK to say that here!) had to go through. All very interesting but the best part was the visit to the township. Suddenly I was back in the Africa that I know and love- where folks stop and say hello, where there is an energy and vibrancy that I recognise, where its busy and crazy and fun. Table View where we stay is beautiful and luxurious but frankly you could be anywhere. So it was nice to have a glimpse of real Africa again and I'm going next week to stay for a couple of nights in the township to soak up the atmosphere.

Anyway thats all for now. I have more that I want to say on some stuff but my fingers are getting really sore and this entry is long enough. Also its freezing in this corner and I want to get back to the lovely roaring fire that we have tonight (did I mention that its freezing and raining and blowing a gale and snowing! I feel right at home!!!)

I made it!

At last,the final post from Kenya, and now I can't wait to get going. To even say that makes me so sad as I love East Africa in principle but just haven't enjoyed Nairobi- in case you haven't noticed by now!

I want to record some of the happier memories that I will be taking away with me. They have to be based around the members of the group. They are so strong and brave and even though the group has ejected them as of last week, they are starting again with nothing. As Joyce, the ex treasurer said to me " Heather, I have been working to counsel those with HIV for 20 years and did it without a penny. I can and will do it again". The courage and determination of these women just moves me to tears and I always find myself wishing that there was more that I could do to assist. However, they survived very well without me and will do so again.

I'm doing all this backwards, but we had a meeting with the donor last Friday and unfortunately she was in support of our glorious chairman. He is very good at self promotion and has wonderful skills in making himself sound good. If only he could turn it to something legal! Anyway, I would have believed him too if it was me so can't really blame her. Then an election was held for the committe members. The chairman has been very busy bribing and intimidating members, so of course they all voted him in. They also booted out the secretary, the treasurer and the 2 volunteers that I have been working with, and put others in their place that will allow himto do as he wishes with the money and so on. Hence the reason that these hard working women now find themselves without a job or any money coming in. 2 of them are widows with no one to assist them and they have 9 children between them. Life really sucks sometimes and its just not fair. But then I guess you all knew that anyway!

Anyway, happy memories! Walking with the volunteers, doing home visits and talking of everything under the sun. Sitting in the office, discussing sex lives and the price of eggs! Laughter and singing at every opportunity, despite going home to no food and hungry children. Seeing some members who are sick slowly returning to health and knowing that they are going to get better, at least this time. Providing relaxation therapy and seeing it really make a difference.

Anyway its time to go and make some memories elsewhere.

Till next time.

Death approaches early in Africa

I wanted to use this blog to update on some of the members. So many of them have been helped by the kind donations from the UK, but there are others that money can no longer help.

Miriam was one of the first members that I met when I came to Kenya and she was very sick at the time. That was sorted out but now she is "down" or sick once more. I think that her TB has returned and there is something else wrong but I can't tell what. She had to go back to the hospital the other day- I had to give her the money for bus fares as our bloody chairman has spent all the money, damn him!- but the hospital are not saying what is wrong with her. That usually means that there is little that they can do for somebody. She looks dreadful and is very weak, hardly able to walk. I'm not sure what is going to happen to her. She is 24 and a prostitute, a fate that befalls many African women as they have no other way of making money.

Lydia is our other member who is dreadfully ill. She was in hospital about 3 weeks ago with TB and was eventually released home. Now she is suffering from meningitis. She is taking medication but she is not able to eat anything for about 2 weeks now, meaning that her ARV's will not work and she will fall prey to all other infections that are around. We visited her on Friday and she was barely conscious that anyone was there. I think she will almost certainly die. I suggested that we have her admitted back to hospital to have IV food, but the hospitals here are not like Western hospitals. If they think that she may die and not be able to pay her bill, they will just leave her to die on the floor of the corridor, unless someone is kind enough to pick her up. She will also pick up more disease outside the hospital than in it, so it is safer to leave her at home. Her mother takes care of her and is very worried about her. Lydia is 26.

I also wanted to comment on the attitudes of African men towards HIV. Most of them carry a very great stigma and will not let anyone know if they are positive. So many of them even refuse to be tested, and will not take drugs if they find out that they are positive. If a man finds out he is positive he will always blame his wife, although African men have up to 20 girlfriends when they are married and usually don't use condoms. We visited a non member the other day who wanted advice. Her husband is very sick, constantly vomiting and having diarhorrea, but refuses to go to the hospital. He also beats her every day when she takes her ARV's as he has instructed her not to take them and she refuses. He insists that the drugs will kill her! This is a common view among Africans especially men. They also believe that they are not suffering from HIV, they are suffering from witchcraft, someone has put a bad spell on them, AIDS is propaganda from the government and all sorts of nonsense. And this is as likely to come from educated men as from uneducated men!! No surprise then, that death comes early in Africa.