Just an update

So I haven't really been keeping up with the blog in the way that I should be- oops!! Trouble is that lots happens and I don't really have time and then I can't remember whats going on !!

Its been a bittersweet time recently as people that I have become very attached to have left and I find that difficult. Steph left on Monday and I felt really upset about that as we have literally spent every waking moment of the last 4 weeks together! (We did a second sky dive in honour of her leaving- magic time and I've included a piccie!) We worked together and played and partied together so it feels strange that she is not here now. Chelsey left the week before and left a great hole in the company. Also I went out on Thursday night with Bonnie, someone else that I really hit it off with. However, we went to a place called Mandelas which was the best fun I have had in SA so far. The organisation pick you up and ply you with local drink on the bus as you pick up all the others. Then they take you to a township in Hout Bay which is about an hours drive from Table View, and give you a bit of the history of the creation of townships (I'm going to do a whole other entry on the townships and apartheid so bear with me!) Then we go to a local shebeen (or pub) and the locals just hang out with you and drink beer. Dirt floor, basic electricity and the best singers and dancers that I have ever met. Once again a glimpse of the Africa that I know and love. Home cooked local food- samp and beans, mealie pap and chakalaka (maize and beans, maize porridge and spicy veggie stew)- all delicious in the extreme. Then jukebox music and dancing and having fun till its time to go home. Food, transport, entertainment and alcohol as well as a unique experience all for R225 which is about 9 quid- much cheapness!

Things at work are fine- I only have 4 shifts left to do. Then I think I'm going to travel SA for about a week (the Garden Route), then go to Kruger National Park with Rhian, one of the other volunteers and then probably take a bus trip in Egypt to take in Luxor, Alexandria and all the places that I didn't get to in February. I also have my diving course to do next week which I'm looking forward to in the extreme!

The house is busy as always with the comings and goings of different volunteers for different projects- you do get tired of being welcoming to new people at times! We sleep in the outside bedroom so sometimes its nice to get away from the crowd. In the main the volunteers are girls, and in the main they are in their early 20's so I confess to feeling like a proper old fart at times!

Oh I nearly forgot to say that at last I have managed to get myself a bike!!!!! I will of course have to leave it behind when I go but it means that I have transport for the next couple of weeks. Brand new mountain bike, air pump and lock for R800- about 55 quid!! I plan to go out cycling today as the predicted rain has not materialised and its beautiful and sunny.

Oh the photos- well one is of Table Mountain- yeah if you didn't get that one you shouldn't be allowed out on your own! I plan to go and climb it next week. Apparently it only takes about 2-3 hours. The other is simply footprints in the sand which is a reference to the Footprints poem which I love. The coast here is so beautiful and most addictive. I can't stop taking photos. There is a little coffee shop called Carluccis just around the corner from work where I go to get a hit of caffeine in my lunch hour and I always take my book to read. However between chatting to the extremely pleasant owner (who has my Sprite Zero and my flat white coffee ready for me every day when I go in!) and gazing at the wonderful ocean, I never get much reading done!

Thats about it for this time. Nearly time to move on again. Doesn't life just pass you by!

I survived!

For those of you who have possibly been on another planet for the last few days and dont know, I did a sky dive yesterday. It has to be the coolest and most exciting thing I've ever done, and I'm off to do it again in a week's time ( when we booked it I was like "Errrmmm, thats still a tandem dive right? Even though its our second jump?" The guy was like "No, we chuck you out of a plane from 9000 feet on your own after 20 mins instruction and one jump." Cheeky bastard....)

Anyway the dive- when we got to the jump height I began to think that maybe I wouldn't be able to do it after all- 9000 feet is incredibly high, in case no one realises! We also got a fantastic day for it, very clear and sunny so we could see the ground clearly from that height and were able to start contemplating it in death terms! There is a rush of high speed wind when they roll up the side of the plane (these things are tiny, 6 of us were cramped in it- the skydiving was probably safer!) then I had to watch Steph do the jump first. Her last words as she dived were "Holy fucking shiiitttttt....." then she was gone. Then it was my turn. "Sit on the side of the plane, swing your legs back, put your head against my shoulder. One two three- jump!" 40 seconds of freefall at 120mph before the parachute opens then a leisurely descent admiring Table Mountain and the West coast of the Cape. Beautiful. Can't wait for the second time. Oh and I also have it all on DVD to prove that I did it!

Mama Africa's last night for dinner to celebrate- great food and fabulous African live band which had the place jumping. Had a fab night and didn't get home till 10 am this morning. Ach well, you only live once right!

Busy week ahead- working Mon and Tues (by the by its amazing that at the end of 3 12 hour shifts you can think "I never want to see another fucking kid or hear another Barney song for the rest of my life." Then by the end of your 2 days off you are thinking "I wonder how Sisi's cold is? I wonder if Klunks is walking yet? I wonder how Adrian is doing?" And you are actually looking forward to seeing them. Crazy but true!) I've attempted to add a photo of Adrian smiling away and hopefully its worked. This kid came to us 2 weeks ag. He's 17 months old, HIV positive, mum is dead and he has been living on the street with dad who is an alcoholic. He has been woefully neglected and left very much to his own devices, terrible chronic excema and some behavioural problems. Also one of the sweetest kids I've ever known.

Then on Wednesday we are off to stay the night at Vicky B and B- the smallet hotel in the world! Also hope this image has successfully been added! Its in the black township and the rooms are small but very beautiful. Vicky started it about 10 years ago in the hope that white tourists would come and stay there and they do!

Thursday off to visit Robben Island where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned for political reasons for so long. (By the way his 90th birthday here was such a big deal- every time you go to the ATM it says on the screen Happy Birthday Madiba- his tribal name and a mark of respect. Go South Africa!) Then Friday we are going paragliding- I've already done it but its fun to do it again. Then working the weekend and that will be another week gone by. 3 weeks in already- I cant believe it!

As always I have more to say and add but enough is enough! I still have email to do so I must rest. I've had no sleep ya know- feel sorry for me........?!

Till next time!

Livin the good life in SA!

Well, so far I can't complain in the least about SA although I'm sure I'll be able to find something. The area that I am staying in is painfully white and affluent, the shops and activites are great and I'm not short of company or of things to do- what more could I possibely need?!

The volunteer house is set up so that folks come and go on a regular basis so sometimes its a bit difficult trying to decide who is who and what project they are doing. Aviva has numerous projects on the go, all over South Africa so sometimes folks only stay here for 1 or 2 nights before moving on to go to work. The main volunteers that I am working with on the same project are all getting ready to finish up in about a week, and I will miss them very much but there are more coming in a few days so the house will remain busy!

Work- hmmm.... Well suffice it to say that the woman who runs Home of Hope (Elanor) and I have not exactly gelled. We will definitely not be bosom buddies for the rest of our lives, there is no doubt about that! However, she is a committed and passionate woman who has dedicated all of her life to caring for kids who have been neglected and I have to respect and admire her for that. She and Richard, her husband run the home from their own house and have people coming and going at all hours of the day and night. They also have their own kids that they are bringing up and they have adopted 3 kids from the home also. So they are pretty busy!

The kids are great. All under 2. They all have different histories but all have been neglected abused or abandoned for different reasons. We currently have 4 HIV babies, one preemie, and one who is on a tracheotomy and needs very special care. One of my favourites, a little girl who is approximately 9 months old, was raped by her father. She now screams the place down when you lie her down to change her or bath her.

The routine is pretty crazy when you have 12 to look after. Dressing and breakfast in the morning, then some activities, then lunch and naps ( yeah right!) then supper and baths and bed by 6pm. 12 hour days, but they are so busy that they don't feel long at all!

Spare time- well, I have a skydive booked for Saturday, I want to go sandboarding, I'm dying to try kitesurfing and I'm on the hunt for a bike- again- so that I can cycle the coast line. It's perfect as its so scenic and not at all strenuous. We also just hang out, go out for dinner and drink a lot of wine- hey its South Africa, it would be rude not to! Oh, and theres also a great gym about 10 minutes walk from here so I joined on the spot. They have great facilities and an indoor heated swimming pool- result!

Although there is loads to see and do and I'm really happy, I had a strange experience yesterday. We went on the cultural tour, which is part of the package that Aviva offer. Its a lot to do with the apartheid years and the terrible stuff that black and coloured people (its OK to say that here!) had to go through. All very interesting but the best part was the visit to the township. Suddenly I was back in the Africa that I know and love- where folks stop and say hello, where there is an energy and vibrancy that I recognise, where its busy and crazy and fun. Table View where we stay is beautiful and luxurious but frankly you could be anywhere. So it was nice to have a glimpse of real Africa again and I'm going next week to stay for a couple of nights in the township to soak up the atmosphere.

Anyway thats all for now. I have more that I want to say on some stuff but my fingers are getting really sore and this entry is long enough. Also its freezing in this corner and I want to get back to the lovely roaring fire that we have tonight (did I mention that its freezing and raining and blowing a gale and snowing! I feel right at home!!!)

I made it!

At last,the final post from Kenya, and now I can't wait to get going. To even say that makes me so sad as I love East Africa in principle but just haven't enjoyed Nairobi- in case you haven't noticed by now!

I want to record some of the happier memories that I will be taking away with me. They have to be based around the members of the group. They are so strong and brave and even though the group has ejected them as of last week, they are starting again with nothing. As Joyce, the ex treasurer said to me " Heather, I have been working to counsel those with HIV for 20 years and did it without a penny. I can and will do it again". The courage and determination of these women just moves me to tears and I always find myself wishing that there was more that I could do to assist. However, they survived very well without me and will do so again.

I'm doing all this backwards, but we had a meeting with the donor last Friday and unfortunately she was in support of our glorious chairman. He is very good at self promotion and has wonderful skills in making himself sound good. If only he could turn it to something legal! Anyway, I would have believed him too if it was me so can't really blame her. Then an election was held for the committe members. The chairman has been very busy bribing and intimidating members, so of course they all voted him in. They also booted out the secretary, the treasurer and the 2 volunteers that I have been working with, and put others in their place that will allow himto do as he wishes with the money and so on. Hence the reason that these hard working women now find themselves without a job or any money coming in. 2 of them are widows with no one to assist them and they have 9 children between them. Life really sucks sometimes and its just not fair. But then I guess you all knew that anyway!

Anyway, happy memories! Walking with the volunteers, doing home visits and talking of everything under the sun. Sitting in the office, discussing sex lives and the price of eggs! Laughter and singing at every opportunity, despite going home to no food and hungry children. Seeing some members who are sick slowly returning to health and knowing that they are going to get better, at least this time. Providing relaxation therapy and seeing it really make a difference.

Anyway its time to go and make some memories elsewhere.

Till next time.

Death approaches early in Africa

I wanted to use this blog to update on some of the members. So many of them have been helped by the kind donations from the UK, but there are others that money can no longer help.

Miriam was one of the first members that I met when I came to Kenya and she was very sick at the time. That was sorted out but now she is "down" or sick once more. I think that her TB has returned and there is something else wrong but I can't tell what. She had to go back to the hospital the other day- I had to give her the money for bus fares as our bloody chairman has spent all the money, damn him!- but the hospital are not saying what is wrong with her. That usually means that there is little that they can do for somebody. She looks dreadful and is very weak, hardly able to walk. I'm not sure what is going to happen to her. She is 24 and a prostitute, a fate that befalls many African women as they have no other way of making money.

Lydia is our other member who is dreadfully ill. She was in hospital about 3 weeks ago with TB and was eventually released home. Now she is suffering from meningitis. She is taking medication but she is not able to eat anything for about 2 weeks now, meaning that her ARV's will not work and she will fall prey to all other infections that are around. We visited her on Friday and she was barely conscious that anyone was there. I think she will almost certainly die. I suggested that we have her admitted back to hospital to have IV food, but the hospitals here are not like Western hospitals. If they think that she may die and not be able to pay her bill, they will just leave her to die on the floor of the corridor, unless someone is kind enough to pick her up. She will also pick up more disease outside the hospital than in it, so it is safer to leave her at home. Her mother takes care of her and is very worried about her. Lydia is 26.

I also wanted to comment on the attitudes of African men towards HIV. Most of them carry a very great stigma and will not let anyone know if they are positive. So many of them even refuse to be tested, and will not take drugs if they find out that they are positive. If a man finds out he is positive he will always blame his wife, although African men have up to 20 girlfriends when they are married and usually don't use condoms. We visited a non member the other day who wanted advice. Her husband is very sick, constantly vomiting and having diarhorrea, but refuses to go to the hospital. He also beats her every day when she takes her ARV's as he has instructed her not to take them and she refuses. He insists that the drugs will kill her! This is a common view among Africans especially men. They also believe that they are not suffering from HIV, they are suffering from witchcraft, someone has put a bad spell on them, AIDS is propaganda from the government and all sorts of nonsense. And this is as likely to come from educated men as from uneducated men!! No surprise then, that death comes early in Africa.

Corrupt bloody Kenya

You can refer to the email as to the reasons for the title of this post. I'm not sure why it bothers me so much but this place is the most corrupt that I've ever come across. And no one is clear from it- it exists in politics, in the police. In a country where you can't trust the police or the government, who do you turn to in times of trouble? And of course as I already said, its affecting our wee project and may well get in the way painfully! The general public don't really bat an eyelid, they just accept it but for someone who is coming from a country where the politicians are scrutinised and questioned, its hard to think its OK.

I knew last week that there was something that I'd forgotten to add. When I got back to Oldy, I found that one of the teachers had lost her husband so we went to the funeral. It was a different experience! For a start the widow did not join the general throng, she sat separately in a manyatta (she's Masai) and everyone went to her to pay their respects. Food and chai were given, then songs and hymns sung over the deceased who lay in a shiny white open coffin decorated with purple ribbons- Africans love ribbons! The women all shrouded them selves in bright kangas and then we filed past the coffin to pay our last respects. The women left at this point and each collected a single rose on the way to the maize field where he was to be buried. Then the men followed with the coffin which was spaded over with dirt. The women went forward with their roses and placed each one singly on top so that at the end it was covered with roses. It was all very simple but very affecting, especially as Africans shout and cry very publicly at times of loss which I found quite nerve racking!

But back to Kenya. The members of the project are continuing to be happy that they have some way of working and supporting themselves, and getting some food for their children. That makes all the difficulties worth while. And we have a set and proper programme for counselling and for home visits (on Fridays we have to go to Kawangware which is 6 miles away- and there is no money for bus fares so Shanks pony it is!!). So we are more organised and also starting to be known within the local community which is a good thing. So its not all bad despite my doom and gloom view point at times!

Well, I'm going to close now. Its Saturday, I actually have the day off to be a tourist and with that in mind I'm off to the Langata Giraffe Centre where they take care of orphaned giraffes. No idea how to get there but isnt that part of the fun?!

Till next time x

Blogging again from Tanzania

See the email as to the reasons why I'm blogging in Tanzania!!

Anyway I arrived here on Friday and I'm heading back to Kenya today. I stayed in Oldy of course, with my lovely family who welcomed me like a Queen, with open arms. It was lovely to see them all again and I discovered that Mama Last is pregnant again. She has offered the baby to me as a "mtoto jifty"- a gift child,in the hope that I will take it back to Scotland and raise it! Needless to say I've refused but its the nearest I've come to having that "jumper baby"that Mands is always talking about.....!

I had the strangest feeling when we crossed the border from Kenya to Tanzania- I felt immediately that I was home- isn't that the strangest thing? Anyway its underlined for me that the Africa I prefer is not the dirt and noise of the cities- its the wide open landscapes with acacia trees everywhere and no human presence except the distant bright spot that is a Masai moran ( or warrior), wearing the traditional checked blue, purple and red blankets that are their clothes, walking to his manyatta (the Masai walk dozens of miles together and call it a short stroll!)

I should really say something on stuff in Nairobi. The work has not really chnaged, although it remains for me difficult and frustrating. We got a delivery from the Kenya Red Cross last week- we got registered with them through my insistence, I might add. Anyway we had 50 kilos opf porridge lying around the office for 3 days until I asked why it hadn't been divided and distributed. There was no good answer so I threw yet another tantrum and insisited that it be done immeditately which it was. People are literally starving to death in front of our eyes while there is food lying around! I am also investigating the large supermarkets and other charities for food donations- if I wasn't doing it no one would! The lethargy and apathy that is present here is shocking at times. I can't bring myself to be too harsh as these people are seriously sick but sometimes I could bring their end about a little quicker!!

Talking of sickness we have an outbreak of typhoid in the slums. Its not really surprising as conditions are horrifically dirty, but its awful to see such a disease present when the cure is so simple. There are so many people in Kenya with no access to clean water and the bloody government does nothing about it. We have clean water brought in every day but it doesn't last long with so many people needing to drink and wash, so often folks have to fall back on other means. And the slums are so dirty. The concept of rubbish collection has not yet reached Africa, so piles of nameless rubbish are left around to rot as they will. The smell is incredible, and the children often hunt through it looking for something to eat. You have to jump the rivers of filth as you are walking around and my greatest fear is that I'm going to fall in one day!! Oh and the toilets. Most people live in one room, divided by a curtain, one side for sleeping,one for eating. The cooking is done in the street on small charcoal stoves. These rooms house families of 8 or 10 people and they don't have toilets. These are outside, 3 between maybe 150 people. Add to this that they are squat toilets that don't lush, and that the people who are using them are often ill and have stomach conditions- well, they are pretty awful. I've used them once or twice while doing home visits, but now I've become like a camel and I wait all day till I get home. Who knows what you could catch otherwise!

I got the news last night that Caroline has had her baby. I'm excited and proud and just a little sad that I'm not there for the happy event- except in spirit! When I think of all the life that I'm missing out on while I'm here and the fact that she and Ezzy will have a 2 year old boy instead of a baby by the time I see him- its a temptation at the lowest points to jack it in and go home. Thank God I'm tough enough to see it through!!

I think thats it for now. I always forget what I was going to say until I get home and I think,oh bugger,I should have mentioned this and that. Its impossible to tell you folks everything, and some of it you wouldn't believe anyway!

See ya next time, Constant Reader! x