Sunday 17 August 2008

Shamefully White















So I've been promising myself for sometime that I would get around to an entry on the whole political situation and the apartheid thing. Finally here it is!
About 3 or 4 weeks ago I visited the District 6 museum which, surprise surprise, in in District 6. This was one of the districts that was allocated as "White Only" when apartheid took its grip in the early 60's. This was despite the fact that the area was already full of black and coloured folks. By the way its ok to say coloured here, it means someone who is not pure black and not pure white. For example one of our tour guides Ursula has a black father and a Chinese mother so she is coloured.

Anyway, there were many districts that were allocated as white only and the government got really busy moving out all the black folks to make room for the tetchy white folks who wanted the area because it was nearer to the city centre and had better amenities and so on. The way these removals were done was horrific. The government just sent trucks with no warning and folks sometimes had as little as 20 minutes to pack up the homes that they had been living in for 20 years, and their families and move out. Their belongings were tossed into the trucks and no one cared whether they got damaged or not. This obviously was traumatic enough but to make matters worse, the black were then moved into areas that were far away from Cape Town and the areas that they knew. They had to travel for 4 hours sometimes to get to work, costing a lot of money and meaning that they left for work at 4am. Their social networks were cut off as they were removed from their friends and they had no money to keep in touch. Often they lost their jobs because they were late or couldn't afford to get there. The black areas became known as areas that were high in the crime rate and in illegal activities, but no one ever made the connection between this and the fact that people had been moved too far away. Instead everyone shrugged their shoulders and said "What can you expect from the blacks?". Add to this the fact that "Whites Only" sign started creeping in everywhere, the blacks had no reasonable access to amenities, medical care and so on, and its not surprising that the tensions rose in the way they did. About 10 years after the start of apartheid, a group of young black men made a peaceful walking protest against it as their children were not getting good education. They were gunned down by the (white) police and most of them were killed for expressing their opinion. One of the photos above is of the monument that was set up- rather late!- by the government in their memory.
Even now in South Africa things are not really any different. The country is only 15 years out of apartheid- isn't that incredible!- so its unrealistic to expect massive changes as yet. The funny thing is that when you talk to Ursula about the differences, she says that in some ways the black and coloureds were better off under apartheid. This is what she had to say:
"As a coloured person I had "Cape Coloured" marked on my identity card so that any government officials could identify me and decide that I should not be in the white area. Apartheid was a terrible time for us all and very scary, as the government could do as they pleased with us and no one would stop them. However, at least when they decided at that time to move us, they would build us decent homes to live in, proper brick homes that were dry and had electricity. But now, the black people are just left to live in townships. They are still separated from whites because they have no education or prospects so can't afford to live in a decent house. They have been forced to build these tin shacks in these townships (the biggest in Cape Town, Khayaleitcha, hold nearly 2 million black and coloured people) and the government say that they dont have to help beacause people are making their choice. My people are not making choices, they have had this way of life thrust upon them and the government do even less now to assist than they did before."
So apartheid may not officially exist in South Africa any more but unofficially its still very much in existence. The lower ranking and poorer paid jobs here are held down by black people- the shop workers and construction workers, the road sweepers and sadly the homeless people who sleep on the beach are all black. The doctors and dentists are all white and drive big, fancy cars. They live in places like Table View and the blacks live in the townships.
Isn't that shit? I've never felt so ashamed to be white.

Tuesday 12 August 2008

Buzzin' in the heid!














So much has happened recently that that's exactly how I feel! However, I will attempt to condense it all somewhat....

So I finished work last week- an awful feeling. I've had a few issues with HOH and the way that it is run, but the bottom line is that you are there for the benefit of the kids and after 6 weeks they become very much part of your normal life. So I miss them greatly and I plan to pop in and visit just before I go for good.



We went on the Cape Point tour last week (wee photie included!) which was tremendous. We went to Hout Bay, Simons Town, then onto to Seal Island, Cape Point and the Cape of Good Hope. It was magical to see all the places that I've read about and learned about at school and to put it all into reality.


Then I started my diving course on Friday. The first session was just watching DVD's and learning the theoretical stuff- which is far more lengthy that I ever imagined by the way! But Saturday was great. We went to Seapoint about 30 mins along the road to get to the swimming pool. Before you run away with the image of a chlorinated, heated, indoor swimming pool, let me disabuse you of that notion. The pool is outside, filled by the sea which crashes in next to it and on Saturday it was about 7 degrees in temperature. In other words, bloody freezing!!! Our first task was to swim 400 metres in our swimming costumes with no wet suit- somewhat good for blowing the cobwebs away! Then we were supposed to complete 5 dives with different tasks- we only got 3 done. Some of the stuff is really hard and it takes a bit of time to get used to breathing underwater, especially with 50 pounds of gear on your back! I had to come away early as I was feeling ill and I missed the lesson on Sunday so now I have to catch up cos this weekend we go into the sea for 4 real dives!!!


The swimming in freezing water didn't assist my cold in any way and yesterday I had to finally relent and go to the doc. The first thing he said when he looked at my throat was "Ewwwwwww!" so I'm guessing it wasn't good! Throat infection, glandular infection and chest infection all diagnosed so now I have to take a million horse pills and rest- bleuuch!


I also made the decison to go on a second wine tour which was great fun- hey it had nothing to do with the wine, all my friends were going too! So much wine, cheese and chocolate consumed yet agin- not too great for the diet but yuummeeee!

The photos l-r are: Bonnie, Chelsey and me. The 30+ girls on the Cape Point tour. Me at the Cape of Good Hope, the most SW point in Africa. Lunchtime for Simdi who is thriving and getting big- ish!

So its nearly time to get going again- I'm sure I've said that before! I go to Kruger National Park for a short safari on 25th, then I'm off to Sahrm El Sheik for a 9 day break. I've booked self catering accommodation so I get my own little place. Then on the 13th I'm off on a 17 day tour of Egypt which sounds amazing. Then back to SA for a couple of days and then off to Vietnam on 3rd October. I'll miss SA- its been refreshing and good fun and more than therapeutic after the horrors of Nairobi. But I'm also looking forward to getting somewhere new. I read in a travel book somewhere that the "mark of a gypsy traveller is he who never rests, who appreciates where he is but who is also looking to the next location, the next horizon, the next challenge".
Sounds good to me!!

Sunday 3 August 2008

Just an update







So I haven't really been keeping up with the blog in the way that I should be- oops!! Trouble is that lots happens and I don't really have time and then I can't remember whats going on !!






Its been a bittersweet time recently as people that I have become very attached to have left and I find that difficult. Steph left on Monday and I felt really upset about that as we have literally spent every waking moment of the last 4 weeks together! (We did a second sky dive in honour of her leaving- magic time and I've included a piccie!) We worked together and played and partied together so it feels strange that she is not here now. Chelsey left the week before and left a great hole in the company. Also I went out on Thursday night with Bonnie, someone else that I really hit it off with. However, we went to a place called Mandelas which was the best fun I have had in SA so far. The organisation pick you up and ply you with local drink on the bus as you pick up all the others. Then they take you to a township in Hout Bay which is about an hours drive from Table View, and give you a bit of the history of the creation of townships (I'm going to do a whole other entry on the townships and apartheid so bear with me!) Then we go to a local shebeen (or pub) and the locals just hang out with you and drink beer. Dirt floor, basic electricity and the best singers and dancers that I have ever met. Once again a glimpse of the Africa that I know and love. Home cooked local food- samp and beans, mealie pap and chakalaka (maize and beans, maize porridge and spicy veggie stew)- all delicious in the extreme. Then jukebox music and dancing and having fun till its time to go home. Food, transport, entertainment and alcohol as well as a unique experience all for R225 which is about 9 quid- much cheapness!






Things at work are fine- I only have 4 shifts left to do. Then I think I'm going to travel SA for about a week (the Garden Route), then go to Kruger National Park with Rhian, one of the other volunteers and then probably take a bus trip in Egypt to take in Luxor, Alexandria and all the places that I didn't get to in February. I also have my diving course to do next week which I'm looking forward to in the extreme!



The house is busy as always with the comings and goings of different volunteers for different projects- you do get tired of being welcoming to new people at times! We sleep in the outside bedroom so sometimes its nice to get away from the crowd. In the main the volunteers are girls, and in the main they are in their early 20's so I confess to feeling like a proper old fart at times!



Oh I nearly forgot to say that at last I have managed to get myself a bike!!!!! I will of course have to leave it behind when I go but it means that I have transport for the next couple of weeks. Brand new mountain bike, air pump and lock for R800- about 55 quid!! I plan to go out cycling today as the predicted rain has not materialised and its beautiful and sunny.


Oh the photos- well one is of Table Mountain- yeah if you didn't get that one you shouldn't be allowed out on your own! I plan to go and climb it next week. Apparently it only takes about 2-3 hours. The other is simply footprints in the sand which is a reference to the Footprints poem which I love. The coast here is so beautiful and most addictive. I can't stop taking photos. There is a little coffee shop called Carluccis just around the corner from work where I go to get a hit of caffeine in my lunch hour and I always take my book to read. However between chatting to the extremely pleasant owner (who has my Sprite Zero and my flat white coffee ready for me every day when I go in!) and gazing at the wonderful ocean, I never get much reading done!


Thats about it for this time. Nearly time to move on again. Doesn't life just pass you by!